Wall Space
With the exception of doodles in my high school notebooks, this is my first surf painting. Like a lot of surfers, I hated high school. I mean I liked my friends and a few of the more serious teachers who obviously cared about what they taught. But mostly it was a waste of time, and I could not wait to get out. I still believe that most formal education is a waste of time. It's a mystery to me how I ever became teacher, and even more of a mystery that I found that I loved it. My best teachers were people who loved their subject and seemed to love their students more than the job. They shared a passion for something they cared about, something that deserved attention and even reverence. They took it seriously and expected us to do likewise. To them their passion was serious, but it was exciting. It was kind of like surfing, though I never had a teacher who I thought would see that connection. I painted this one while I was teacher at a high school by the ocean. It was the first big canvas I painted, and I did it fast, painting a dreamy wave - and a dreamy ride - with one big fat brush. It's not too big, but it's FAST. To me it's pure love of something thrilling and exciting, like when you are inspired by a new or ancient idea that carries you away, excited, on the edge of your ability to keep up with it. I still ride this painting almost every day. I still love carving the lip and flinging spray up into the light.