The Cove
I painted this one fast and I like that it has a cartoony feel to it that belies the "feel" of this particular spot. It's actually kind of a scary place to surf, where I was always a little worried about sharks. Like many surfers, I have been accused of seeing all of life through the metaphorical lens of riding waves. Not all of them are "fun" even if they might be thrilling. There have been many mornings when I pulled on a still-wet wetsuit to paddle out into the cold indifference of the ocean out of a sense of duty to my soul that knew on some level that it just needed to be out there. The dude in the barrel might look and feel in that moment a little a distorted and lonely and scared, but he's right where he needs to be.